Ike Lines and Leftovers

In 1900 a hurricane struck Galveston Island, causing the highest loss of life from a natural disaster in America's history. No one knows how many died, but the estimates run from 6,000 to 10,000 lives lost, and 3,600 homes destroyed.

The island was little more than a sand bar, and what dunes there were had been flattened to provide better views. In 1848, Braman's Information About Texas was quoted as saying "I should as soon think about founding a city on an iceberg as on Galveston Island, if I looked to it's safety and perpetuity." The highest elevation on the island in 1900 was 8.7 feet and the storm surge was 15.7 feet. 

The city began work on a plan that would protect the island and it's citizens by building a sea wall.

The wall, on the Gulf side, was built 17 feet high. The houses still standing were raised to the resulting level with screw jacks, lifted 1/4 inch at a time to the beat of a drum. It was an amazing undertaking. Sections of land 1/4 mile square were diked and filled with a sand slurry removed from the ship channel. As one section was finished another began. The island was remade with a gentle grade highest on the Gulf side lowering to the existing level in the Strand District.

The sea wall worked, but Galveston never recovered to it's former self. A ship channel to Houston made that city more appealing to industry. What was once the largest and wealthiest city in Texas had to rethink her future. Galveston became a tourist destination 

The Hotel Galvez and Spa, built in 1911 and still standing, is facing the sea wall.

We'll come back to the Galvez later.

The sea wall wasn't perfect, but it did save a lot of Galveston when Hurricane Ike struck in 2008.

The water came in from the bay side, not the gulf. Many of the old buildings down town mark the water level.

At the corner of 23rd and Post Office

In the air museum the flag shows the water level

A building downtown that also survived the 1900 Storm

At the train museum

Here we are back at the elegant Hotel Galvez.

Built in 1911 it was in an excellent location when prohibition made alcohol scarce.

Galveston had  a very relaxed attitude about liquor. Other vices got the nod here too as the area called itself The Free State of Galveston. Gambling was popular. 

Across the street from the hotel was a private gambling club called The Balinese Room. In the 40's and 50's it was a popular nightclub with entertainers like Bob Hope, Frank Sinatra and Peggy Lee. The drink Margarita was invented here they claim, for Peggy Lee. Howard Hughes was a member of the club with other wealthy oil men from all over Texas. The Texas Rangers tried to raid the club many times but were hampered by the length of the pier. At 600ft. the Rangers couldn't get to the gambling tables before they were hidden. As the Rangers would run down the pier the band would strike up "The Eyes of Texas" and diners would rise to applaud them, further slowing them down. In the mid-50's Las Vegas began to offer legal gambling and the owners moved to Nevada. The club and pier remained until Hurricane Ike in 2008.

Z Z Top recorded a song about the club - "Down at the Balinese"

www.youtube.com/watch?v=cgVY2a65r6A

Click the above link if you'd like to hear it.

LEFTOVERS

A sleigh at the Bishops Palace. 

Really?????

They had snow on Christmas here in 2005 and think it was wonderful.

Of course it melted off by noon.

The giant trumpet downtown. 

They have a big Mardi Gras here.

Avenue P1/2?

The Houston Press, a giveaway paper found in many places.

The back page of same paper and....

The ad in the bottom left of the page.
I don't think I need to add any comment.

and finally

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Earl's favorite Christmas present ever!

We expected a territorial war with Winston but it didn't come to pass.

Winston is too portly to fit in the box.

Victorian Homes of Galveston

In the late 1800's Galveston was the largest city in Texas. 

Most of the cotton in Texas left though the port here, making the city home to investors. The economy was booming and the wealthy built homes that are still standing today.

The Trube Castle on Broadway

This is a private residence.

Ashton Villa, built in 1858, was the first brick house in Texas. It's now a Visitor's Center.

Just look at the intricate wood on this home.

Many homes in Galveston were destroyed in the 1900 hurricane and rebuilt in the Victorian style. There are entire neighborhoods that are filled with beautiful homes, and other eye-catchers sprinkled in among ordinary houses. There are grand 3 story "painted ladies" next door to humble little structures in sad need of  repair.

Above is a row of businesses on Post Office Street.

Post Office is now lined with restaurants, art galleries and upper end retailers, but it was once the city's red light district. One of the antique stores we visited claimed to have been a bordello. The second story was filled with very small bedrooms; at least a dozen; and two bathrooms - a men's and a women's.

Fishing Boats and a Drilling Platform

On a motorcycle trip with Joe and Barb we decided we should stop for a snack. There's a lot of restaurants on the water in the Strand District of old Galveston and parking is at a premium. We ended up at a Joe's Crab Shack and yes I know we could have gone to a local joint but this Joe's really is on the water. I can highly recommend the crab dip nachos. I would happily recommend the drinks Barb and I had but I can't seem to remember what they were. There was a two drink per person maximum, and it we are not the kind of women to step back from a challenge.

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A whole string of fishing boats. One pulled in while we were there and the birds stormed the boat.

The fishermen culled through their catch and tossed the unwanted fish over board where the pelicans and cranes cleaned up.

Love the 'do!

Waiting for the buffet line to open!

The Ocean Star Offshore Drilling Rig Museum

I'd wanted to visit and here we were so........

This was once used in the gulf.

There are three levels on the rig with exhibits.

There were several models of different types of drilling platforms.

There's also

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an oil worker cut-out photo op.

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That's mine on the left and Barb's on the right, and yes girls - they're taken.

Trains and Planes

Galveston has a railroad museum in the old downtown Strand area. The original station has been refurbished and now also includes a model train exhibit.

There's a huge assortment of engines and cars outside.

Some of the cars have been lovingly restored.

The center piece of their collection

The kid sized train on wheels. They also offer 20 minute rides in a caboose on Saturdays.

The station is shown in the background. 

I enjoyed looking at the cars in the unrestored state most. You could climb up the steps and look in the crew  accommodations or check out the old dining cars.

Some of the cars have been redone to use as party rentals or company meetings.

While we toured the railroad museum, thinking of the elegant travels of times past, we could see through the cars one of the Disney cruise ships waiting at the dock a block away.

Then and now, huh?

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John was interested in the airplane museum here, mainly so he could ride in one of the vintage planes.

I thought a ride in a bi-plane would be a hoot so I was all for it.

The museum really turned out to be way more interesting than I imagined.

The first plane on exhibit, with a tail gunner and side gunners. The one on the side kind of looked like a UFO popping out.

The mustang John had chosen for a ride is shown above. The plane is nothin' but motor - a real hot rod.

It's rare to get a chance to ride in one.

It's also expensive.

At $1995.00 for a half hour ride John passed.

The planes were just beautiful. I don't know anything about WWII airplanes but I do know vintage cars, and these planes were detailed out to perfection.

The inner workings of a turret gun show the bicycle seat the gunner sat on.

Did he hop on this thing when the action started or did he stay there for the entire mission?

In this shot you see the "pedals" his feet would rest on. The seat did have springs for the shooters comfort. 

In the background is one of the bi-planes available for rides. At $200 a ticket it sounded like a real buy, but no, I didn't do it.

Next time for sure!

Moody Mansion and Bishop's Palace

Narcissa Willis was a wealthy Galveston socialite in the late 1800's. 

Her niece moved in to a fabulous new home on Broadway, the place to live in Galveston then and now. The home was very impressive and Narcissa couldn't stand being upstaged like that. She demanded that her husband, merchant Richard Short Willis, build her a home even grander than the niece had. Richard was not swayed. They had a fine home and he saw no need to move. Narcissa bided her time. When she became a widow she contacted an architect and began building in 1893. The home was completed in 1895, and Narcissa hired the interior decorator who had recently done work on the White House. 

Narcissa finally had what she'd wanted for so long, but it cost her the entire estate left by her husband. There was no inheritance left for her children.She lived alone in the huge home until her death in 1899, when the remaining family put the house up for sale. Finally William Moody Jr put in a bid for the house. He offered $20,000 but only if the furniture would be included. It was a ridiculously low offer but on September 8th 1900 a hurricane destroyed most of Galveston Island. No other offers came in and William Moody got the house.

The building sustained little damage and many neighbors were sheltered here after the storm.

William Moody Jr was in the cotton business, not as a grower but a processor, and Galveston was the port that shipped most of the cotton in Texas. He amassed a fortune in banking and insurance, dying in 1955 with a worth of  $400 million. He was an unassuming man and lived a low key life.

He and his wife,Libby, had four children. Libby was a hands on mother and raised the children with no nannies. The family ate together every night, unheard of at that time when children had their own dining room in the back of the house. The oldest daughter Mary had her coming out party in the house and the dress she wore is on display.

The home is a museum run by the Moody Foundation. 

Remember the Moody Gardens?

Same family.

The porte-cochere and driveway coming toward the carriage house.

And Joe dipping Barb!

Now we go down the street to the Bishop's Palace.

This house was built in 1893 for the family of Walter Gresham, a politician, lawyer and railroad magnate. At that time it was the largest home in Texas. Gresham reportedly drove the builders crazy, dropping in several times a day to offer advice. The monogram "G" is worked in to the building in several places such as fireplace mantles. Unlike the Moody Mansion this home has few furnishings, but the woodwork is just as amazing. This house also had little damage in the Great Storm of 1900 and sheltered many survivors.

In 1923 the Roman Catholic Diocese of Galveston bought the house. It was situated across the street from the Sacred Heart Church, and it became the residence for Bishop Byrne. His bedroom was on the second floor to the left with the small balcony. There are some remarkable stained glass windows in the home, and a small chapel. After church offices were moved to Houston the diocese opened the home for tours in 1963

The Sacred Heart Church across from the Bishop's Palace